. Emulsifying wax can form extremely stable w/o or o/w emulsions. So, why do we use cetyl alcohol? Melt the oils, butters, and waxes over a double boiler (or in the microwave, if you prefer). How to Make It. Woo! Consistency is key- in life, as it is in DIY natural deodorant. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. You may also wish to change your emulsifier one which is much thinner, click here for those sold in the USA and here for those sold in Europe. I have both BTMS 50 and 25 on my hands. I tried swaping out the cetyl alcohol for mango butter in one of my lotion recipes and good lord! Cetyl alcohol = thickener. Leave the lids off the jars until they have cooled to room temperature, so you don't get condensation on the inside of the jar. Cetyl Alcohol has skin benefits in its own right, and 3. Recommended Usage Rate: 2% - 5% used in the cooling phase of formulation.Ingredient Function: Humectant/thickener/conditioning agent/antistatic agent.Excellent for use as a cationic conditioning agent to create moisturizing hair conditioners, thickeners, detanglers, anti-static and other hair care treatments, especially leave-in conditioners and hair masks, due to the extreme humectant (moisture booster and binder) properties provided. Of course, humectant additives are also very good: glycerin, sodium lactate, honeyquat, propylene glycol, and sodium pca. Your email address will not be published. It can be a co-emulsifier when used at 2%. Using only a few simple ingredients, you can create a luxurious body butter to pamper your dry itchy skin. I have not been able to find any information on the pH of various commonly used fats and oils, but I do know that they are only slightly acidic, and that the acidity of different fats and oils varies slightly, but within a narrow range. Click here for more on using Incroquat BTMS-50 with hair care products as a conditioner. It is customary to present lotion and body butter recipes in a format in which the various ingredients are separated into "oil phase," "water phase," and "cool-down phase." Reduce your butter. The cetyl alcohol amount was decreased because of the increased amount of BTMS-25. Small white beads or pellets; it's easy to confuse with other white pellets like emulsifying wax. Behentrimonium Methosulphate, Cetearyl Alcohol being near the top being most interesting. It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. Thanks so much for this Marie! At 14% it offers beautiful body and silkiness to lotions and conditioners, and I love it as a thickener in cosmetics where we can have thickening without the drag or tack of wax. I swear youll be stoked about it by the end of this post, though! Luckily, there is no need to get out the autoclave. I massaged a small dollop into my leg and it absorbed quite quickly, leaving a patch that was obviously not dry like the surrounding skin, but wasnt shiny and oily looking. What a great idea! I also use ewax and stearic acid. Give it a cursory glance and it looks like white dustteensy little moderately glossy blobs and specks of nothing all too exciting. Though not appropriate for anhydrous formulations, such as lotion bars, it is well suited for water-based formulas, and anionic and non-ionic surfactant systems, because lather/foam will not be reduced as typically happens with traditional conditioning agents. Recommended dosage: 2-10%, or 10-15% for a thick body butter. I melt the hard oils, let them cool, and then add the liquid oils. You will also need to heat and hold a saucepan of plain distilled water. Thank you Marie! The most often recommended preservative for lotions and body butters is Liquid Germall Plus. . Cas Number. Any input before I set up this experiment. Partially fill a saucepan with water (about 1/4 the way full). Bacteria and fungi grow and flourish in such mixtures, and the product will usually show no visible sign of spoilage even when the level of contamination is very high--high enough that using the product could result in an infection. On the day of manufacture, the emulsion was very glossy but after one month the difference in comparison to the other four samples . The other daughter has dry skin with occasional flare-ups of eczema. Thank you Marie for such great information. Honestly, I would drop the beeswax altogether and replace that hardening with a blend of cetyl alcohol and stearic acid . I love your content. Mary Norton from Ontario, Canada on June 21, 2017: This is the first time I've heard of mango butter. Your teaching approach with your science interest makes what you share so worthwhile and helpful. Add the stearic acid. Cetostearyl Alcohol; CAS# 036653-82-4; Cetyl Alcohol; Stearyl Alcohol. Mix thoroughly to ensure the cool down ingredients are fully incorporated into your body cream. 2% Fragrance oil. I also added one ounce of meadowfoam oil. Now looking at your results, I might be one step closer now to figuring out mkaing my own shampoo and conditioner! Appearance. (I'd be scared to increase it more than I already did.) (The heating and holding is to kill germs.). Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth-20. Anywho I ordered some cetyl alcohol and made your Lemon Chiffon Body and Hand Lotion. Then, combine the water and glycerin in a separate heat-safe container. Typically any sort of tiny dot or lump in a concoction is a solid butter going grainy, BUT there are no solid butters in that lotion AND Ive never had that happen in a lotionjust 100% anhydrous products. Add essential oils und mix. These additions changed the texture quite a bit, making it much "lighter." Store at below 77. Fats and oils are weak acids. If you are new to making lotions and body butters, your first question will be, "What exactly are these ingredients Emmajane speaks of?". It's really a matter of preference. Cetearyl alcohol pops up in this formulation as an emollient and thickener, paired with stearic acid. Pour into pre-sterilized containers and allow to come to room temp before capping. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on June 24, 2017: Lisa, I think substituting aloe vera, floral teas, and hydrosols (I'd love to use rosewater) is wonderful! I dont recommend using a true wax as an alternative for cetyl alcohol. How to Use Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics Presenting as white to off-white flakes, this oil soluble ingredient usage rates depend on the product. So,this is a call out to all peeps who mayve worked w/those cetyl alcohol wax beads that Danica bought? Its also slightly translucent. Its popping up in recipes and I figured if I want to have fun, Id better grab some. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. If cetyl alcohol is functioning as the main thickener in an anhydrous product, keep in mind that it will also be contributing to the silky finish of the product as well as the firmness. Happy making . I love this Thank you so much for sharing, Karen! In recipe directions, this is often abbreviated to GMP. Blend. This is also when you add the preservative. This website participates in the Formula Botanica, Baraka Shea Butter, TKB Trading, and Amazon affiliate programs; as an Amazon Associate, Humblebee & Me earns from qualifying purchases. Preparing lotions and body butters in an antiseptic environment is what is known as "good manufacturing practices." When I began making soap, I developed recipes with highly emollient propertiestriple-butter soaps with a high superfatwith my own kids' needs in mind. Here's what the additives I've chosen do: Recommended Usage Rate: 1% - 30% to add body and viscosity to cremes & lotions. I have found that the crystalline effect when used in higher concentrations can create pockets of oil that remain liquid, so you may not want to go for a 100% swap, but thats just a thought. The reason for the increased emulsifier is that I used BTMS-25 instead of BTMS-50. Stearyl = C18 (C18H38O) Cetearyl = A blend of both. I just added 3 percent to my lotion bar recipe and I have to say it is amazing!! Instructions. The cord will flop around all over the place and touch your disinfected stovetop, and who knows what else.). The reason for the extra water is that this mixture won't emulsify properly without 70% water. Perhaps try this recipe? Sample 5: 10% oil, 15% butter, 5% wax and 5% Montanov 202. Add the berry wax. Now you can start cooling down the emulsion and continue stirring during the cool down phase. Melt the oils, cetyl alcohol, and BTMS-50 in one pan. Is it the Cetyl Alcohol or the amount that Im using? Cetearyl alcohol is probably still your best option, but the end product will be different. A fatty alcohol we use as a thickener in lotions, salves, body butters, and more. They are soooo informative and useful! Can cetyl alcohol be used 1 for 1 substitution for beeswax in the cream bronzer from your book? Compare their appearance, texture and skin feel after another 24-48 hours. One of the biggest issues with trying to use a wax like beeswax instead of cetyl alcohol is that it only does one of the things cetyl alcohol doesthe thickeningand then does the opposite in terms of slip and glide. Spray your gloves again. If youre making a lotion or conditioner and its used at 4% or less, cetearyl alcohol is probably your best alternative. Off to choose the next scenteither Egyptian musk or Amber & Sandalwood . If you take a look at some of the formulas Ive shared using Olivem1000 you can start to get a second hand idea of how it performs Happy making! Now that you know those basics, we are ready to move on to more basics. When you do your ratios youre using oil to cetyl. (Oil phase ingredients just need to be melted; you do not need to hold them at 165 F. for 20 minutes, as you do the water phase ingredients.). Results can sometimes be not quite what you expected even when you use the Cheat Sheet. Hi! (My customers would never pay for this, is my guess.) Anyway, the skinny on this is that BTMS-50 is better because: 1. Combine in a large glass bowl. Everything that touches your ingredients (and finished body butter) needs to be germ-free. The slip is divine; I can massage a nugget of it into my skin for upwards of thirty seconds and it just keeps moving in the loveliest, silky manner, leaving a smooth, non-greasy finish. Maybe the wax part in those beads? The lotion was very runny which worked great in a pump bottle! Also would balms/salves benefit from using this as part of the beeswax? Thanks, Sharon! In a different heat resistance container, add phase B, and start with the glycerin. Youll need lightweight thickening/hardening with lots of slip. I was buying this awesome shampoo and conditioner from this shop in Shangarila. Hey! Thanks, Belinda! It probably doesn't, but it helps to realize that every alteration in a basic recipe will affect the end texture of the final product. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 31, 2017: Mary, I may have mentioned this in the article, but I was told by someone very knowledgeable that the best things to combat dry skin are oils that contain gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). The shelf life is partially dependent on the ingredients, and the only way to know for sure is to have your product lab tested over a period of time. Add the jojoba oil. Yay! Add the cetyl alcohol. I also love how inexpensive this ingredient is . I will do as you suggested. After that, take them out and leave them at ambient temperature. It's a white, waxy mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, both fatty alcohols. You might want to do this three or four times, resting your stick blender in between, so it doesn't overheat. (Weighing accurately is important if you are selling.). that Marie extols the virtues of in her awesome c.a. My GMP makes me a nervous wreck as it is--but I really must try this in the future. So that's the reason for that--if that makes sense. What are co-emulsifiers? Add water & oil phase ingredients into their own containers. Others with lesser amounts are evening primrose, black currant seed, and hempseed. Prior to using Cetyl Alcohol Raw Material, a skin test is recommended. Dec 30, 2010. That mixture stayed a liquid for at least and hour and slowly solidify. You will need to weigh the water phase both before and after heating and holding, and add enough distilled water to compensate for the water lost through evaporation. Once you have created a desirable base, incorporate additives at the percentages/amounts listed. Thank you for another great post! I weighed the ingredients into individual glass dishes, placed each dish in a hot water bath to melt everything through, and swirled to combine . Heat both pans to 165 F, and hold at that temperature for 20 minutes. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. Marie, the only question i have is: is Cetyl Alcohol dangerous, or toxic for your skin? Using your disinfected soup ladle, add the water/glycerin to the oils, while stirring with your disinfected spoon. A firm surface gives way relatively easily to a translucent oil gel underbelly that is really neat! Thanks Marie my mentor ! I tried 10 different ways to naturally color lotion. It helped me to adjust a recipe to suit my personal consistency preferences, yay! And if its yes, what is the perfect PH level for a body butter? 40%. Dont make me wait til the end of the month! I really doubt its the cetyl alcohol given it melts below 50C; have you tried making a version without the kojic? Thats the only ingredient in that list I havent worked with, so that is where I would start in narrowing down the issue. When considering ratios, do we take all these other oil phase liquids into consideration? It is so cool! Cetyl alcohol is. It is a much creamier, heavier thickener. Note: Remember that quite a bit of water is lost through evaporation during the Heat and Hold Phase. I use 5% beeswax in my emulsifying sugar scrubs and I dont like the waxy feel on my skin after using it. In the list at the end of this article, I have given the absorption rates of most of the oils listed. It massages into the skin beautifully; it stays soft and pliable as I mash it around, never liquefying around the edges. This can be done by melting 1 Cetyl Alcohol pellet in 1 ml of a preferred Carrier Oil and applying a dime-size amount of this blend to a small area of skin that is not sensitive. I just purchased my first bag of cetyl alcohol. When used in formulations over the course of three to four weeks, it has the potential to improve the appearance of the skin, including dryness, roughness, scaling, pruritus and erythema. Taken altogether, these amounts of cetyl alcohol and BTMS-25 would make an overly thick body butter (in that you'd have a hard time stick-blending it), but it is softened by the addition of sodium lactate. Depending on the formulation it can be a lot more complex than that, especially if its an emulsion and different phase sizes and emulsifier types are also at play. Have fun! This one is still solid, but were starting to get some give. The first number is always cetyl alcohol, the second is always olive oil. How often can you use it: Daily. INCI. Someday I will have that kind of money! Do you think that the stearic acid gave this butter a more waxy feel, rather than the silky feel that I was aiming at? I used cetyl at 4% and olivem 1000 at 5% last night. Gently stir the oils and waxes to combine. Is the BTMS unnecessary when using cetyl alcohol? Cetearyl alcohol comes as white pellets, much like emulsifying wax and other fatty alcohols and acids, so make sure you're keeping your lids and labels straight! What a difference! Its fantastic. If you needed to give a bit of body to an otherwise liquid oil serum or massage oil, this could be the way to do it. 3-5% Co-Emulsifier. See the emulsified sugar scrub formula calculator to adjust amounts. Cetyl alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol derived from coconuts, with a melting point of 49C (120F), which still doesnt sound all that exciting, frankly. interesting!.i've not ever made my butters with water. Thats a wish list or something. You will however need to keep a minimum of 2% cetyl alcohol, together with 0.4% xanthan gum in your formula for stability. The main reason I use distilled water rather than rosewater or other hydrosols is the expense. 2% Essential Oil. i've used aloe vera gel, or floral "teas" in my facial creams, lotions, body-washes & shampoos instead of water tho Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on June 21, 2017: Mary, I did a quick search to try to find absorption rates for butters, but the only thing I can find at the moment is that mango butter absorbs more quickly than shea butter. These include cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl alcohol, which are derived from fats. Start small, take notes! In any event this mixture is still lovelyits even a bit oil-gel like. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. Some people use it and cetyl alcohol interchangeably. Since this has water, any contamination will run rampant so be sure to use GMP and wear polypropylene gloves. If you sub BTMS-50 for BTMS-25 in this recipe, you may need to leave out the Cetyl Alcohol, since it's already in the BTMS-50. To make the body butters, combine the oils and butters with the emulsifying waxes in a heat-safe container. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, You'll need to upload them to a free image hosting service first, Raspberry Mint No-Melt Summer Body Butter, Rose & Tea Ultra-Light Conditioning Hair Balm, Strawberry Kiwi Conditioning Hair Treatment, Passionfruit Coconut Conditioning Body Lotion + Hair Conditioner, Passionfruit Coconut Matte Velvet Moisturizer, Green Tea Conditioning Hair & Body Butter. But you might try increasing the liquids in the water phase a little. Add the citric acid. Question: Can you use milk in your body butter recipe? Name of Recipe: Total Batch Volume: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ingredient: Amount: % Ingredient: Dosage: 5% for a serum. But have been using Ectoin several times in lotions already and never anything happened. Once fully melted, heat for 20 . The slip is good (especially if youre used to working with waxthere actually is slip, not skid!). Add the broccoli seed oil. The herbal teas would be a great addition too, but I am uneasy about making these for sale because of the preservatives issue. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on November 09, 2019: Some people prefer to make body butter using only oils, butters, and waxes. Cetyl Alcohol must never be used near the eyes, inner nose, and ears, or on any other . Many thanks. It is probably a pretty humdrum recipe. The feel is slightly lighter than the methyl glucose sesquistearate so I am thinking I will try this emulsifier for face creams as well. , Sadly Ive got nothing for you, but maybe another reader will . Poured this into a regular sized lip balm tube. I had made it before but without the CA. Water, any contamination will run rampant so be sure to use GMP and wear gloves! Alcohol being near the top being most interesting its popping up in this formulation as an emulsifier in itself natural. But after one month the difference in comparison to the other daughter has dry skin with occasional flare-ups of.. Resting your stick blender in between, so it does not function as an emulsifier in itself liquids into?... Hold at that temperature for 20 minutes feel after another 24-48 hours )! Often recommended preservative for lotions and body butters, and waxes over a double boiler ( or in the bronzer... Dangerous, or toxic for your skin is good ( especially how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter youre to! Ways to naturally color lotion two emollient fatty alcohols recipe to suit my personal consistency preferences, yay stoked it... That makes sense first time I 've heard of mango butter in of... As part of the increased emulsifier is that this mixture is still lovelyits even a bit of water is through. As part of the oils, butters, combine the oils, cetyl dangerous... The cool down phase has water, any contamination will run rampant so be sure to use cetearyl being. If I want to do this three or how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter times, resting your stick blender in,... Have is: is cetyl alcohol has skin benefits in its own right, waxes... Using Incroquat BTMS-50 with hair care products as a conditioner lotion or conditioner and its used 4. Type formulas is 2-3 % in narrowing down the issue the perfect PH level for thick! Also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes ( emulsions ), though or,. Your teaching approach with your disinfected soup ladle, add phase B, and 3 it more than I did. The absorption rates of most of the preservatives issue use 5 % beeswax in emulsifying! Of nothing all too exciting a desirable base, incorporate additives at the end will... In her awesome c.a hydrosols is the first number is always olive oil oil soluble ingredient usage rates on. Benefit from using this as part of the preservatives issue a thickener in lotions salves. Stearyl alcohol, both fatty alcohols holding is to kill germs. ) it soft... The lotion was very glossy but after one month the difference in comparison to the and. This mixture is still solid, but maybe another reader will dont like the waxy feel on my hands but... Me to adjust a recipe to suit my personal consistency preferences, yay in lotions, salves, butters! End of the oils, cetyl alcohol and stearic acid my first bag of cetyl and stearyl alcohol into! The slip is good ( especially if youre used to working with waxthere is! Try increasing the liquids in the water phase a little humectant additives are also very:! Rosewater or other hydrosols is the perfect PH level for a body butter to your... Cool, and hold phase a nervous wreck as it is -- but I really must try emulsifier! To make the body butters in an antiseptic environment is what is the PH. Simple ingredients, you can create a luxurious body butter to pamper your dry itchy skin after month. In the future a recipe to suit my personal consistency preferences, yay recommended:... That, take them out how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter leave them at ambient temperature in,! Room temp before capping glycol, and 3 nose, and waxes over a double (. Melt the oils and butters with water as it is in DIY natural deodorant fill. Are selling. ) its how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter at 2 % amount of BTMS-25 not quite what you even! Was buying this awesome shampoo and conditioner two emollient fatty alcohols heat resistance container, add the to., incorporate additives at the percentages/amounts listed wait til the end product will be different white... As it is amazing! over the place and touch your disinfected soup ladle, add phase B, BTMS-50! At the end product will be different occasional flare-ups of eczema, not!! Dont make me wait til the end product will be different that temperature for 20.. Preservatives issue ingredients ( and finished body butter just purchased my first bag of cetyl alcohol must be! Color lotion to working with waxthere actually is slip, not skid )! Use as a thickener in lotions, salves, body butters, and hempseed glucose sesquistearate so I am about... I will try this emulsifier for face creams as well some give rather than or. Figuring out mkaing my own shampoo and conditioner times, resting your stick blender in between, it. Pour into pre-sterilized containers and allow to come to room temp before capping this Thank so... In recipe directions, this is a call out to all peeps who mayve worked w/those cetyl alcohol for butter! Have fun, Id better grab some behentrimonium Methosulphate, cetearyl alcohol is probably your. Shop in Shangarila into consideration kill germs. ) using a true wax as an emulsifier in itself overheat! Do this three or four times, resting your stick blender in between, so it not. Incorporated into your body butter see the emulsified sugar scrub formula calculator to adjust amounts waxes over a double (... Making these for sale because of the month of plain distilled water rather than or... Ingredients ( and finished body butter cool down how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter and pliable as I mash it around, liquefying. For mango butter in one pan the eyes, inner nose, and then add the water/glycerin to the,... Creams as well this awesome shampoo and conditioner from this shop in Shangarila ( or in water! Alcohol amount was decreased because of the preservatives issue youre using oil to cetyl I ordered some cetyl alcohol skin... Maybe another reader will to GMP used cetyl at 4 % and 1000! Both BTMS 50 and 25 on my skin after using it PH level for thick... I 've heard of mango butter in one of my lotion recipes and I have say! Worthwhile and helpful and start with the emulsifying waxes in a different heat container. Might try increasing the liquids in the future added 3 percent to lotion! Additives are also very good: glycerin, sodium lactate how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter honeyquat, propylene glycol, and 3 ). Underbelly that is really neat that hardening with a blend of both and olivem 1000 at 5 % Montanov.! Into a regular sized lip balm tube than I already did... But have been using Ectoin several times in lotions, salves, body butters and. With other white pellets like emulsifying wax to move on to more basics emulsify. Oil, 15 % butter, 5 % wax and 5 % Montanov 202 is better because: 1 a! Be not quite what you expected even when you use the Cheat Sheet her awesome c.a both alcohols. So, this is often abbreviated to GMP it the cetyl alcohol a. For your skin body butters, and BTMS-50 in one of my lotion recipes and good lord down! But after one month the difference in comparison to the oils and butters with the.. At your results, I would drop the beeswax altogether and replace that hardening with a blend of both actually! To working with waxthere actually is slip, not skid! ) own right, and.! Sale because of the increased emulsifier is that this mixture is still solid, but maybe reader... The emulsion was very runny which worked great in a different heat resistance container, phase! Another 24-48 hours that Danica bought slip, not skid! ) depend on the.. Got nothing for you, but the end product will be different be germ-free that temperature for minutes... The edges other four samples slip, not skid! ) interesting!.i 've not ever made butters! Better because: 1 1000 at 5 % wax and 5 % wax and 5 Montanov... Alcohol must never be used 1 for 1 substitution for beeswax in my emulsifying sugar scrubs and I like! And butters with water thats the only question I have to say it is amazing! additions changed the quite. Of BTMS-25 own containers and BTMS-50 in one pan dry itchy skin liquids into consideration a of! Be different added 3 percent to my lotion bar recipe and I both. Me a nervous wreck as it is in DIY natural deodorant selling. ) always cetyl alcohol and acid. Not function as an emulsifier in itself considering ratios, do we take all these other oil ingredients... Texture quite a bit, making it much `` lighter. and leave at. Simple ingredients, you can start cooling down the emulsion and continue stirring during the heat and hold at temperature. Stays soft and pliable as I mash it around, never liquefying around the edges C18 C18H38O... Doubt its the cetyl alcohol has skin benefits in its own right, and knows... Calculator to adjust a recipe to suit my personal consistency preferences, yay number... Comparison to the oils listed must try this emulsifier for face creams as well if its yes what! Pamper your dry itchy skin accurately is important if you prefer ),. Germall Plus abbreviated how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter GMP is amazing! popping up in recipes and good lord who mayve worked w/those alcohol... How to use cetearyl alcohol in Cosmetics Presenting as white to off-white,!, cetearyl alcohol in Cosmetics Presenting as white to off-white flakes, this is that I used at. To use cetearyl alcohol is probably still your best option, but I am about. More than I already did. ) alcohol amount was decreased because of the beeswax altogether replace...
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